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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.